It’s probably just a bad connection from using dupont wiring.
I sort of gave up a few weeks ago.
I’ll have to do something about it before the winter …
Would have been nice to just have pins that match my thermostat plate out of the box !
Oh well …
Oh dear… what is the problem behind this though that stops you from putting it all together?
Well, the tabs that hold the case with the back plate either don’t work or have broken up, hence the duct tape
I have a thermostat wall plate from my previous thermostat the honeywell lyric 5something
It was really important to me that I could easy swap back the old thermostat because this is kind of experimental and I need to make sure I’m not going to freeze in the winter.
So what I did was drill holes in the hestiapi backplate and then passed long male-to-male pin headers through. From that point there are female dupont cables that attach at the backplace header pins and go to male dupont cables in the hestiapi screw terminals.
I hot glued the male to male header and it looks sturdy. Everything lines up with the wallplate too. Everything looks well connected but somehow power isn’t reliably on.
Also when it does boot, it goes to a 5 minute stage with the wifi address displayed and after a while it switches to a black screen with an empty square. I tried connected over the network and got nothing.
So all of that was several weeks ago and I just moved on.
It just annoys me to see this every time I go in the kitchen, I posted it so it can annoy you as well. Hopefully that can be made less painful in the next hestiapi version. I was hoping it wouldn’t be this much DIY for 160$.
(Also am currently setting up home assistant for the rest of my home and I’m wondering, even when all of this works, how much trouble is it going to be to get this working with HA, I’m starting to think, an esp32 and a 4 port relay board directly connected to the furnace might be the way to go for HA control…)
Dupont wires for power is not really a reliable option at 24V and 15W. They are fine for Arduino and less hungry projects but powering a Pi Zero W and the LCD sounds risky. I would suggest reflashing the SD and try running it of 24V AC directly screwed on the terminal block provided.
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